Sesti Brunello: the ‘tantalising’ 2021

A wine of grace and balance

There’s a ruined (now restored) 13th century castle on the Sesti estate; it features on their Brunello label. When Giuseppe (‘Giugi’) Sesti bought a derelict house here, which came with land and the castle, winemaking was not on his mind. He wanted a retreat to raise a family, practise music, and write about astronomy. But as time passed and he helped local Brunello producers with their English, he came to realise he was sitting on prime Brunello land. He planted vineyards and, he says, became a Brunello winemaker ‘by chance’.

Or was it written in the stars? After a long and productive life, renaissance man Giuseppe Sesti died in 2024, having established Sesti firmly in the pantheon of top Brunello. His daughter Elisa, who was brought up here, absorbed his approach early and has long since been making the wine. Giuseppe’s passion for astronomy informs the Sesti approach to the vineyards and winemaking. Elisa follows the phases of the moon for planting vineyards, pruning, moving wine around the winery, and bottling. These should always happen after a full moon, never on a waxing moon. As Elisa explains, ‘liquids are less turbulent on a waning moon. It makes a better wine, and we need fewer treatments and less sulphur’. Their vinifications are slow and traditional, and the wines are raised in large old botti.

2021 was a great vintage for Montalcino, and Sesti - but it was by no means all plain sailing. In April, a severe frost descended. At Sesti, they burnt hay bales around the vineyards over two nights, to hold the frost at bay; the 15% losses of tender young buds which they suffered were substantially lower than at most other estates. Elisa notes that it was only possible to react that way because Sesti is a small estate. The August heatwave was relieved by timely rains. And while the days stayed warm in the run-up to harvest, it became surprising chilly at night. That contrast set generous flavour ripeness against brisk, livening acidity. 2021 Sesti is, as Eric Guido suggests on vinous.com, tantalisingly balanced. /NT

Offered subject to remaining unsold. Wines available autumn 2026. To place an order, click on the wines below or call 020 7638 5998