Serio e Battista Borgogno: top '20 Barolo

Cannubi (pictured) is one of Barolo's great vineyards. It fans down from a ridge in three directions, and it's pretty steep; we once saw a distinguished agent go tumbling down. Sitting plumb at the top of the ridge, with great holdings here and beyond, is one of our favourite discoveries of recent years: Serio e Battista Borgogno. This family winery has been on the scene through five generations, making fine Barolo from Cannubi and beyond.

These days, while the whole family chips in, the estate is mainly managed by cousins Emanuela Bolla and Federica Boffa. These two have re-organised the winery and brought a whole new focus to vineyard management. It shows through in their expressive, joyful 2020s. Their 2020 Barolos counterpoint the warmth and charm of a hot vintage with some surprising focus and freshness.

The family's classic Barolo is a blend of fruit from three communes: Novello, La Morra and Monforte d'Alba (the latter from the distinguished Perno vineyard). As such, it incorporates fruit grown in some of the very different soil types across Barolo, and makes a beautiful regional standard-bearer. Their Cannubi comes from three plots with very different exposure (west, south and east), but all in the traditional core of this historic vineyard. (Recent legal battles have seen Cannubi's boundaries expanded to include some plots of less exalted pedigree). And Albarella cru lies off the western flank of old Cannubi. The sandier soil makes for a more ethereal style of wine that is very rose-petal-and-pomegranate.

All three Barolos will be on tasting in the shop tomorrow, along with their terrific value Barbera; we'll be opening the wines around noon. We hope to see you there. /NT