Batailley, Berliquet, Duhart-Milon, Laroque, Larrivaux, Puyblanquet
'2022 bestows a clutch of astonishing fermented grape juice' - Neal Martin, vinous.com, May 2023
It was a 'season of paradox and luminosity'. The top wines are 'blessed with kaleidoscopic aromatics, intense fruit, finely-sculpted tannins, structure, elegance and length.' They are 'suffused with freshness' and 'destined for long-term aging'. Neal Martin's 2022 Bordeaux vintage report ('You're unbelievable') was released yesterday on vinous.com, and he seems to be keen. Some favourite Uncorked wines get high scores.
This morning saw the release of a fantastic Batailley, muscular and elegant. 'It wasn't really so difficult,' says Frédéric Castéja. 'In 2022 great terroirs made great wine.' For this vintage, Batailley has adopted a smart (if sombre) black variation of their classic label, with a dedication in memory of Queen Elizabeth II. Also in Pauillac, from the Lafite stable, yesterday we had Duhart-Milon.
On the right bank, Berliquet is lovely. Nicolas Audebert freely admits that when the Wertheimer brothers acquired Berliquet in 2017, the intention had been to roll the vineyards into their neighbouring Chateau Canon; but now Berliquet is flourishing in its own identity.
Laroque is a classy performer, and we were seduced by the silky tannins in Puyblanquet, the sister property to La Gaffeliere. There are also some very attractive value picks - from the Médoc, Larrivaux (90-92 NM) and from Fronsac, La Dauphine (91-93 NM). And although it was part of last week's releases, we can't help but note what Neal has to say about Tronquoy (93-95): 'This is an outstanding Saint-Estèphe determined not to lie in the shadow of its sibling Montrose.' Tomorrow is Ascension Day in France, and Bordeaux will be closed for business. Next week, many chateau owners will be in Singapore for VinExpo, so we now expect a lull in releases till Tuesday 30th. /NT
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