Brane, Poyferre, Montrose, Canon, Feytit, Troplong, Gaffeliere, Latour-Martillac
It has been a busy week in Bordeaux, with exciting propositions on both sides of the Gironde. In the Medoc, Henri Lurton has spent thirty years working to get the best from the fine terroir at Brane-Cantenac, and his 2021 is a lovely success. Sara Lecompte-Cuvelier has been making a name for herself with a succession of brilliant performances at Leoville Poyferre. Montrose occupies one of the Medoc's greatest terroirs, and has long been seen as the de facto first-growth of St-Estephe.
Across the water at Canon, Nicolas Audebert has proven time and again he is a hugely talented, thoughful winemaker. In Pomerol, Feytit-Clinet has been transformed over a generation by Jeremy Chasseuil, and is a sumptuous and aromatic wine. Troplong Mondot has always occupied prime terroir atop the St-Emilion plateau; the arrival of Aymeric de Gironde from Cos d'Estournel in 2018 has allowed that terroir to shine through like never before.
La Gaffeliere is one of the oldest family-owned vineyards in St-Emilion, with vineyards next to Ausone and across from Pavie. It is hard to argue with that kind of terroir at the price. (Well, unless you're on the St-Emilion classification judges' panel, of course). And if you are looking for a white in a vintage that favoured them, then Latour-Martillac is a lovely proposition, tense and well-defined, with a 'knockout nose'. /NT
