Elvio Cogno: traditionalist pioneer
'The 2012 Barolo Ravera is another gorgeous wine from Cogno. An exotic melange of orange peel, cinnamon, spices, licorice and dried rose petal lifts from the glass as this sublime, nuanced Barolo gradually opens up. Deceptively medium in body, the 2012 Ravera captures the pedigree of this great Barolo site. The Ravera emerges from 70 year-old vines, 60% Lampia and 40% Michet in terms of clonal composition. With time, the Ravera gains weight, power and intensity, all with streaks of supporting tannin that give the wine its sense of proportion. Drink 2022-2043. 94 points' - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com
You have to wait ages to enjoy good Barolo, right? No, the 2012 vintage is the one to open while you wait for some more recent and upcoming vintages to mature. It is a low yield year, so there is plenty of matter in the wines and as authority Kerin O'Keefe says, the 2012s boast immediate appeal and are harmonious and alluring. The vintage has made delicate and perfumed wines - extremely drinkable and exactly the kind of juice to make a confirmed Burgundy nut as likely to part with their hard-earned as a Barolophile. Especially if they are as concerned as they should be about the availability of Burgundy over the next few years.
Elvio Cogno started in the wine business by working at Marcarini for free, before eventually becoming a shareholder and de facto grower and winemaker. When the next generation at Marcarini had proved themselves he sold his part and bought his own estate. His timing was immaculate as in 1990 one could purchase a quality of land that would be utterly unaffordable now. Hard work and his traditional winemaking talents made his eponymous Elvio Cogno domaine very highly regarded. He was a fantastic host as well. You needed a long time set aside for a visit to Elvio. His death this summer marked the end of an era, though he has left the estate in the super-capable hands of daughter and son-in-law.
The star vineyard in their holdings is Ravera, equivalent in quality to a Clos St-Jacques 1er Cru, and a piece of land whose potential Elvio had a large part in revealing and exploiting. It's a south-east facing, chalky terroir that suits Nebbiolo perfectly and Cogno's 2012 Ravera will be drinking from arrival and for another 10 years at least. /CW
Offered subject to confirmation for shipment autumn 2017
