2023 Valandraud (St-Emilion)

Inky depths to Valandraud in this vintage, well constructed, intense sweet liquorice and black chocolate, starts out threatening a more old school feel for this wine, with creme de cassis dominant and high alcohols, but it is given focus and lift as it moves through the palate, with lilting aromatics of red roses, welcome pumice stone tannins, squid ink salinity, and mouthwatering freshness. Skilful, confident, impressive. 100% new oak for ageing, Jean-Luc Thunevin owner at this 10.7ha estate (currently replanting several plots, so 6.6ha in production). 40hl/ha yield. 95 points

The 2023 Valandraud is a full-throttle, opulent Saint-Émilion endowed with notable textural richness and tons of intensity. This really feels pushed to the edge, but it pulls back at the very last second. Inky dark fruit, chocolate, new leather, licorice and menthol saturate the palate. I imagine that the 2023 will require a number of years to shed some of its baby fat. Harvest took place from September 20 to October 10—on the later side. 94-96 points

The 2023 Valandraud delivers exactly what you expect on the nose from Jean-Luc Thunevin`s crown jewel: very polished scents of black cherries, cassis and crushed violets. One sample had a soupçon of sur-maturité, although another at the château displayed more composure and coolness. The palate is rich and fruit-driven with layers of black fruit. The sample at the château showed more backbone and grip, a healthy sprinkling of cracked black pepper and a long and persistent finish. Give this three to five years, because it is a seriously good Saint-Émilion. 95-97 points