2023 Taupenot-Merme Morey-St-Denis Riotte

This superb premier cru sits just below the Clos St-Denis, and is easily accessed from a gate in the village car park. It follows the slope till it flattens out, on the same limestone and clay soils as Mazoyeres, and doesn’t suffer hydric stress easily. The lovely, intense bouquet mingles plum, herb and raspberry. In the mouth it feels less fruit-driven than it is herbal and mineral, but it is a complex wine with an expressive molten core of fruit underneath. Poised with potential, this is fabulous. (NT 09/12/24)