2023 Taupenot-Merme Gevrey-Chambertin Bel-Air

In the path of cool air circulating from the Combe de Lavaux to the Combe d’Orveau (hence, of course, the name Bel-Air), this is a vineyard that always retains freshness, even in a hot vintage like 2023. Above the Clos de Beze and just below the forest, the soil here is shallow and the slope is steep. In post-phylloxera times, Bel-Air was swallowed by forest, and was not reclaimed till the 1960s. Now Romain likes to wonder if, in an era of climate change, it might be reclassified as grand cru. Highly perfumed, the bouquet offers fresh raspberry and orange. The texture is sweet and delicate, with ripe red fruit complemented by fine tannins and a lip-smacking, mineral acidity. (NT 09/12/24)