2023 La Lagune (Haut-Medoc)

The 2023 La Lagune, incidentally a wine that for some unfathomable reason I did not taste from barrel, contains no Petit Verdot this year as Caroline Frey, who has since stood down from running the estate, found it did not contain the finesse she was looking for. It has an attractive bouquet with blackberry, bilberry and light iodine scents that unfold nicely in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with powdery tannins. Gentle grip, quite linear and certainly saline, it has a briny finish that just needs a touch more persistence as it feels a bit hard on the landing. Time will soften that up. Pleasant black pepper notes mixed with bay leaf linger on the aftertaste. Fine, but give this three years in bottle. 91 points

Concentrated spiced plum, billowing red and white roses fragrance, opening to a confident tannic architecture, and an expansive but controlled delivery of textured autumnal fruit. Rose stems and grippy tannnins suggest full ripeness was challenging, but this has character and depth, and lift through the palate. Caroline Frey owner, 30hl/ha yields. 93 points

The 2023 La Lagune, a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot, reveals bright aromas of dark wild berries, flowers, cassis and spices. Medium-bodied, supple and enveloping, with a perfectly balanced mid-palate, it’s elegant and charming with an ethereal, fruity finish. This is an excellent rendition of this terroir. 90-92 points

The 2023 La Lagune is a serious wine, but it is also quite backward. Dark red cherry, plum, spice, leather and dried herbs open with some coaxing. The 2023 is going to need time to come together. Its aromatic intensity and overall persistence suggest it has a bright future. Tasted two times. 92-94 points