2023 Fonbel (St-Emilion)

Intense redcurrant, blueberry and blackberry fruit, good vivacity and crunch, with tannins that have austerity but enough juice running through them to ensure balance. This is higher Merlot in the blend than Château Simard from the same range, but the character of the fruit is darker and more textured. Enjoyable. 92 points

A slightly reduced, elegant bouquet of iris, gentian, licorice and spices intermixed with exuberant notes of violet preface the 2023 Fonbel, a medium to full-bodied, elegant and tense wine with a juicy core of fruit and a long, ethereal finish characterized by vertical energy. This is a blend of 64% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Carmenere. It’s a great bottle in the making. 89-91 points

The 2023 de Fonbel is an exotic wine, perhaps because of its varietal blend of 64% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Carmenere. Rose petal, mint, lavender and dried herbs open in the bouquet. I find the tannins a bit severe on the finish, but perhaps elevage will take care of some of that. 90-92 points

The 2023 Chateau de Fonbel was picked from September 12 to October 5. It has a straightforward bouquet with predominantly black fruit, hints of licorice and subtle gravel scents. It’s finely delineated if missing a little power. The palate is medium-bodied and fleshy with pliant tannins, closing with a gentle and lightly spiced finish. Drink it over the next decade. 88-90 points