2023 du Tertre (Margaux)

Enjoyably velvety and silky fresh aromatics, this is Cabernet dominant in character, meaning slim and savoury, and hard to argue with. Has plenty of grip and power as it opens, with cassis bud, blackberry and crayon, together with gentle crushed mint leaf and smoked earth. 60% new oak for ageing, Helfich family new owners since 2021, Cynthia Capelaere estate director, Romain Beurienne technical director, continuing to work biodynamically as they have since 2008. Blend completed early during October, 60% new oak for ageing. The Cabernet Franc vines here are more than 60 years old, and it`s an estate that is getting a lot of love and investment since the new owners arrived. 93 points

The 2023 du Tertre is deep, powerful and resonant right out of the gate. Dark-toned fruit, chocolate, lavender, mocha and dried herbs are broadly sketched. This heady, layered Margaux is certainly not shy. All it could use is a bit more polish in its contours. 91-93 points

The 2023 Chateau du Tertre is very closed on the nose. Despite coaxing, it only reluctantly offers blackberry, wild hedgerow and cedar aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins that frame the melange of red and black fruit. Silky in texture, it reveals some powdery dark chocolate notes towards the finish, though it feels short—like a film missing a couple of crucial scenes. Drink this Margaux over the next 15 years. 88-90 points