2022 Marc Colin St-Aubin Montceau

Mid lemon. The bouquet indicates a surprising breadth of flavour, as if this were a riper spot, and the attack continues in the same fashion, before the wine tightens up at the back in a crystalline fashion, as the stones take over. Very much a food wine, and one which will reward ageing. Drink from 2026-2032. 90-92 points

The 2022 Saint-Aubin en Montceau 1er Cru comes from deep marn soils. This has the strictest bouquet of Damien Colin`s cuvées, in a positive sense. This is not going to kowtow to the consumers` wants - it is what it is. The well-balanced palate has a silver thread of acidity, very citric in style, linear with a steely but very persistent finish. Not giving much away now, so cellar this for several years whilst you`re drinking Colin`s other 2022s. 91-93 points

The 2022 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Montceau is also a real success, mingling aromas of pear, orange oil and lemon with notions of freshly baked bread and white flowers in an inviting bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it`s deep and racy, with good concentration and a long, penetrating finish. 94 points