2022 Bellefont-Belcier (St-Emilion)

This estate`s renaissance continues, and the 2022 Bellefont Belcier is both the finest and most elegant wine that the team has produced today. Mingling aromas of plums and sweet berries with notions of rose petals and bay leaf, it`s medium to full-bodied, with a deep core of vibrant fruit, beautifully refined tannins and a suave, seamless profile. Readers will remember that this derives from a beautifully situated hillside vineyard, sandwiched between Larcis Ducasse and Tertre Roteboeuf on either side, with holdings belonging to Pavie and Troplong Mondot on the plateau above. The 2022 is a blend of 72% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. 93-95 points

The 2022 Bellefont-Belcier is quite dark and somber. In recent years, Bellefont is not as brooding as it once was, which is a positive, but the dark, introspective nature remains. Plum, chocolate, licorice, espresso and incense are some of the many notes that open with a bit of coaxing. There’s certainly plenty of depth, yet the 2022 is on the understated side at this stage. Tasted two times. 91-93 points

Despite swirling for several minutes, the 2022 Bellefont-Belcier was difficult to coax from the glass. There are light black cherry fruit aromas, but it feels a bit static. The palate is medium-bodied with much more promise, with black cherries, raspberry and dark chocolate notes. The finish is grainy, with more freshness on the second and third bottles. Variances between samples compels me to be prudent with my score, but there is a tangible difference in quality between this and its high-performing neighbor, Larcis-Ducasse. 90-92 points