2021 Vieux Chateau Certan (Pomerol)

A blend of 77% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2021 Vieux Chateau Certan wafts from the glass with lovely aromas of violets, rose petals, sweet wild berries, exotic spices, orange rind and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, it`s an elegant, fleshy wine with a bright core of fruit, ultra-refined tannins and a precise, saline finish. Despite its almost Burgundian finesse, this Pomerol`s remarkably penetrating, perfumed finish gives the lie to any notion that it`s in any way lacking in intensity of flavor. As is almost invariably the case, Vieux Chateau Certan is one of the finest wines of the appellation this year. 94-96 points

As I mentioned during en primeur, the 2021 Vieux-Chateau-Certan is driven by the Cabernet components that represent 23% of the blend. Graphite, pencil shavings, tobacco and light gravelly scents percolate through the black fruit. This is unapologetically classic in style. The palate has exquisite balance and harmony - very poised with a perfect line of acidity. There is a linearity that suits VCC`s style of Pomerol and wonderful salinity on the finish that lingers. This transcends the limitations of the growing season. Outstanding. 96 points

The 2021 Vieux Chateau Certan may very well be the wine of the vintage on the Right Bank. Intensely aromatic and nuanced, with exceptional balance, the 2021 is super-classy right out of the gate. Naturally, it doesn`t have the richness or density of most prior vintages, but it more than makes up for that with its sublime harmony and overall freshness. All the elements are so well proportioned. Readers should plan on cellaring this beauty for at least another handful of years 98 points

This has a classic structure, wet stones, smoked earth, plenty of sappy redcurrant and cassis fruits, graphite and subdued power, will easily age for 15 to 20 years. The emphasis is on graceful structure rather than exuberant fruits, but it has clarity and complexity, and the most beautifully drawn out finish. Skilful winemaking. No chaptilisation, 65% new oak, 3.63ph. Harvest September 24 to October 6. 95 points