The 2021 Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg, picked in a sheltered site of marl, sand and gravel on harder bedrock of amphibolite, opens with the most subtle flinty reduction. It spent a year in large barrel on gross lees and was then transferred into stainless steel on fine lees, to be bottled when bright. This is marked by miso-like yeastiness. The palate is a picture of savory depth—slender, refined and defined. This is united in immense saltiness and white pepper tones, all enhanced by zesty lemon. It is unusual that such a mellow wine should hold such a fine, fresh and vivid core. The longer you savor, the more complexity appears—not an obvious wine, but all the necessary components are here. This finishes with exquisite length. (Bone-dry) 94 points