2020 Grand-Puy Ducasse (Pauillac)

Some grilled smoke edges to the aromatics on the first nose. This is extremely tight in its tannins, pretty austere and you need to take a beat to allow this to settle. Cassis and blueberry fruit notes help bring some juice among the tight muscular structure. The oak is a little evident overall, but this is carefully made with promise. Harvest September 15 to October 1. 90 points

The 2020 Grand Puy Ducasse is a wonderful effort from this Pauillac that has always threatened to pulls its socks up. The nose is crisp and focused, featuring vivacious black fruit, cedar and light minty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins and very well-judged acidity, taut at first but fanning out in a sophisticated fashion that I have not noticed on a Grand Puy Ducasse before. This might well be the dark horse of Pauillac. Chapeau! Tasted three times with consistent notes. 92-94 points

The 2020 Grand-Puy-Ducasse reveals a deep purple-black color and notes of crème de cassis, blackberry pie, espresso and black olives, giving way to nuances of cedar chest, graphite and wild sage, with a suggestion of Sichuan pepper. The palate is medium-bodied with a sturdy frame of chewy tannins and just enough freshness, taking a bit of a flavor-dip in the mid-palate, finishing a little short and firm. 87-89 points

Fruity and fulsome on the nose with dark-fruit notes and a dash of (quality) oak. Round and generous on attack then drives on through the palate. At a stage of prise de bois so drying finish but the oak should integrate in time. Dense rather than complex. 16.5 points