Using grapes from Viñaspre in Rioja Alavesa, Roberto Olivan and his family make wines in traditional winegrower fashion: they tend to six hectares and process the harvest in their own warehouse before selling to the public. In 2017, their wines were declassified by the Regulatory Council, and since then, they endeavor to produce “free wines from the Hamlet of Viñaspre,” or VLAV for short. The hamlet has 20 residents and is set at the foot of Sonsierra, surrounded by forest on all sides. Tentenublo produces a pure style that reflects its setting; almost everything ages in concrete, resulting in a juicy expression with refined tannins, good intensity and ample power. The 2019 Xericó is a unique blend of 20% Tempranillo and 20% Viura from Viñaspre, Rioja Alavesa. Aged for 24 months in concrete vats, this liqueur-like wine reveals unusual peach and herb notes surrounding a plum core. Dry and taut on the palate, the rough texture is both compact and juicy, making it a pure and raw wine. 90 points