2018 Lamy St-Aubin Derriere chez Edouard Blnc

It is hard to imagine that anybody can be more meticulous than Olivier Lamy when you hear that he made five different passes through this vineyard to complete the picking – almost as if he wanted each berry at its optimum ripeness. The resulting wine offers a clear pale colour with a green tint. Steely backward nose, really intense on the palate, white fruit with a lemon twist, tightly coiled, certainly no suggestion of dilution here. The fruit stretches out brilliantly at the back of the palate. Maybe the best I know. 92-96 points

The 2018 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard 1er Cru includes some declassified Haut Densité fruit (20% of the total production) from vines too young to enter that blend. This has a lovely bouquet of white flower aromas and citrus fruit mixed with hints of quince and orange blossom. The palate is well balanced with a saline entry, very taut and precise. Brisk Nashi pear and black currant leaf surface toward the finish. Excellent. 91-93 points

The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard is showing brilliantly, offering up a deep bouquet of white flowers, warm bread, citrus zest and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, multidimensional and concentrated, this is tensile and mineral, with racy acids and chalky structuring extract that purists will find irresistible. Lamy included some fruit from young vines planted at high density in this bottle this year. 92-94 points

This is a representative blend of the component that is aged 18 months in oak and the part that is aged in tank. Bright lemon/lime fruit balanced by a nice stony character. Very fresh acidity to balance the ripe citrus and green fruits. Mouth-watering finish. Needs time to mesh. 16+ points