2018 Haut-Brion (Pessac-Leognan)

Fourth generation of the Dillon family at Haut-Brion today, overseeing the extremely challening act of keeping a First Growth at the top of its game. This is laying down the gauntlet - powerfully built, complex and succulent layers of tight black fruits and grilled oak, overlaid with charcoal, cloves, tobacco, slate, sage and smoked earth, nuanced and unwilling to show its hand too soon. Needs a good five to eight years more, and will age for decades. Harvested 6 September to 2 October, yields 44hl/ha. 3.8pH. IPT72. 98 points

The 2018 Haut-Brion is an infant, but its balance and potential are both amply evident. Rich and deep in the glass, the 2018 opens to reveal tremendous complexity and nuance, qualities that only grow with time. The 2018 is not a huge Haut-Brion, nor is it massively endowed, but it is so elegant and classy. I loved it. 97 points

The 2018 Haut-Brion was double decanted, assessed after two hours and then over 24 hours, initially blind against La Mission Haut-Brion. There is more red fruit on the nose compared to the La Mission Haut-Brion, wild strawberries commingling with raspberry, light tobacco scents and shavings of black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced with superb salinity. Maybe this is more elegant and seductive than the La Mission thanks to the killer line of acidity, though it has slightly less backbone and grip by comparison. Oddly, this First Growth is the most approachable of the pair. It has wonderful cohesion and harmony toward the precise, captivating finish. Superb. My hunch is that this will have wider appeal in its youth, then the La Mission might put its nose in front after 15–20 years. 96 points