2017 Quintus (St-Emilion)

The 2017 Quintus was picked 14 to 29 September. It has a pretty, rather compact bouquet that clearly lacks the complexity of the 2015 or 2016 like so many Saint-Émilions. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. There is a tight ball of slightly ferrous dark berry fruit mixed with brown spice, although the finish feels easy-going and does not deliver the complexity of a top-drawer vintage. As such, I feel this will be suitable for early drinking rather than a vin de garde. 89-91 points

Aymeric de Gironde arrived here from Cos d`Estournel in September 2017, and he is clearly intending to make his mark. To get things started, they have brought the harvest dates forward (particularly on the Butte de Mondot, where drainage in recent years has stopped that clay mound being as cool as it once was). They have also stopped carrying out malolactic in new oak and brought the level of new oak down to 65% from 90%. They have a new consultant in the form of Thomas Duclos - this is surely his year - and carried out the blending before ageing in barrel, in a nod to Aymeric`s left bank experience. Very little here was affected by the frost, giving a yield of 45hl/ha, 95% used for the grand vin. This is a terroir that doesn`t need to be dressed up, as I have said several times in the past, and Aymeric is taking what had already begun under Xavier Parrente to the next level. This is one of the few wines to really make your heart race in 2017, with its blueberry and cool, black fruit notes with zippy minerality and a juicy, slightly saline finish. There is plenty of power, but it`s contained, and the fruit is almost surprising in its purity and direction - it makes everyone around the table start talking. This is an extremely surprising 2017, one that I absolutely recommend without hesitation. 96 points

Not affected by the frost. 54.4% Merlot, 45.6% Cabernet Franc (usually 70/30) – the Franc from the vineyard that used to be L`Arrosée. Blended before it was put into barrel. There`s a light floral note here, sweetly aromatic. Lifted, pure dark fruit with an aroma of graphite giving a mineral character. Juicy, mouth-watering and scented on the palate but could do with a little more flesh in the middle to balance that freshness. 16.5 points

A blend of 54.4% Merlot and 45.6% Cabernet Franc, the deep garnet-purple colored 2017 Quintus has a slightly closed nose with aromas of crushed blueberries, fresh black and red currants and black raspberries with touches of black pepper, cinnamon stick, anise and tilled soil plus a waft of lavender. The palate is medium to full-bodied with great intensity and energy, displaying vibrant red and black fruits with wonderful acidity and ripe, rounded tannins, finishing long and lively. 93-95 points