2017 Quinault L`Enclos (St-Emilion)

The 2017 Quinault l’Enclos has a slightly warmer microclimate than Cheval Blanc so it was not affected by frost at all. It is managed exactly like Cheval Blanc even though the terroir is different. It is the first vintage to be vinified in the new cellar equipped with 22 different sized vats and in recent years, more and more Cabernet Sauvignon has been planted due to its gravel soils. This is matured in 50% new oak and 50% used, including one 20-hectolitre foudre. It has a curiously Fronsac-like bouquet with broody dark berry fruit laced with warm gravel, becoming more Left Bank in style as it opens up. The palate is medium-bodied with lace-like tannin, very linear and conservative in style, quite saline in the mouth with a brisk, dried herb, perhaps even fennel-tinged finish. Give this three, maybe four years in bottle as I would like to see it develop a little more grace and personality. 89-91 points

This is a success for an estate that has now seen ten years under the stewardship of Cheval Blanc, undergoing lots of replanting and reworking of the vineyards, as well as changing the way they work in the cellar. There was no frost here thanks to their proximity to the town of Libourne. The vines are on gravelly soils from the river bed, as on the Pomerol plateau, and the lack of water over the summer meant the Cabernet Sauvignon did better than the Cabernet Franc. There is still the slightest dip of savoury fruit, reflecting the vintage conditions, but this is coupled with a freshness and juiciness that I really like, alongside touches of florality and some clean redcurrant, raspberry and brambled fruits. The tannins are fine and the acidity is good without being sharp. Matured in 500l casks, 50% new, for 12 months. 91 points

62% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Cheval Blanc team changed everything when they started working there 10 years ago. Replanting with good clones etc and more Cabernet Sauvignon because there is a lot of gravel. Now also a new cellar, concrete for fermentation. Experimenting with foudres and bigger 500-litre barrels to reduce the oak impact but all new. Deep crimson. Delicately herbaceous and slightly dusty aroma. Smells of stone dust. Or is it the concrete in the cellar? Under that, light cassis. Strange mix of herbaceous flavours and sweet chocolate. Sweet/sour at the moment. Smooth tannins, chocolate texture. Gentle but fresh. 16- points

There was no frost at all in Quinault l’Enclos, as it is right in Libourne and a bit warmer. The 2017 Quinault l`Enclos is blended of 64% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc, aged in 50% new oak and 50% one-year-old oak—only 500-liter barrels and foudres. Deep garnet-purple in color, it gives expressive notes of warm plums, blackberry pie and black forest cake with touches of Chinese five spice and dusty soil. The palate is medium-bodied, firm and grainy with a good amount of earthy fruit and a savory finish. 89-91 points