The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru offers more black fruit than the Estournelles; Dorset plum, cassis and blueberry scents emerge with time. The robust, compact palate has a firm grip right from the entry, a keen line of acidity and a structured, spicy finish that will demand several years in bottle. I would have liked a little more elegance to come through, but maybe it’s a case of just waiting a few years. 91-93 points