2017 Latour-Martillac Rouge (Pessac)

The 2017 Latour-Martillac, which is aged in 40% new oak, picked from 12 to 29 September, contains 13.5° alcohol with a pH of 3.6. I must confess that this is the one property where I encountered some sample variation, a couple showing some oxidative issues. The best sample had a high-toned, gregarious bouquet with cassis, blackberry and boysenberry aromas tinged with sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannin, compact in style with firm grip but missing the peacock’s tail on the saline finish, as if ending the show before the final act. I will seek to re-taste this at a later date.89-91? points

This has clearly used some oak finessing, giving it an attractive grilled edge that is not at all overpowering, but deepens the overall aromatic expression. It`s fairly broad-shouldered, with lovely deep plum and damson flavours. It has the slightest of dips through the mid-palate, but it gathers itself together again to display attractively deep black fruits and tannins that turn chewy but not drying on the finish. Austere, as is the byword of the vintage, but a success. 91 points

Inky crimson. Lifted, pure cassis aroma with a touch of cassis leaf. Dry, powdery tannins. Fine texture, rather elegant, not for those who want masses of fruit, but harmonious and fresh. Perhaps a little bit skinny. 15.5 points