2017 La Dominique (St-Emilion)

The 2017 La Dominique was picked from 15 to 29 September at just 18hl/ha and matured in 30% new oak, less than previous years. The estate is now under the directorship of winemaker Gwendoline Lucas. It has a nicely focused bouquet that shows more elegance than recent vintages that I have been fairly critical of. Here there is more precision and more terroir expression, a tad herbaceous underneath the fruit that merely adds freshness rather than under-ripeness. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin that frame layers of red and black fruit infused with Hoisin and white pepper notes. It does not quite have the panache shown by the nose and it pulls up a little short but I have a sense of a change in direction, one that I like. It might be regarded as a work in progress but it should still drink well for a decade or more. 89-91 points

This is a little underwhelming in terms of its fruit expression, with some savoury cassis and bilberry flavours on the fringes of under ripeness. It`s carefully extracted, showing admirable construction, and there are some luscious qualities here. The juice comes back in on the final section, which bodes well for ageing, but I just feel the 2017 fruit expression is below full power. 91 points

70% frosted so they had more Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and Cabernet Franc (20%) in 2017. This is 50% of production. Inky dark with purple rim. Dark, rocky/mineral fragrance. Juicy and scented on the palate, with some red as well as black fruit. Super-polished tannins that are a fine framework for the fruit. Refined, not over-oaked. Long. 17 points

The tentative blend of the 2017 La Dominique looks to be 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, it has lovely crushed blackberries and blueberry compote notes with touches of dried mulberries, spice cake and dried roses. The palate is medium-bodied, soft and plush with delicate fruit an d a gentle spiciness to the finish. 87-89 points