2017 Fonplegade (St-Emilion)

The 2017 Fonplégade has a very classy bouquet with very pure blackberry and raspberry fruit, hints of cassis developing with aeration. The fruit is very well knitted with the oak. The palate is well balanced with fine tannin, crisp acidity, superb structure and delivers a really detailed and convincing finish. Bravo. This is an outstanding Saint-Émilion. 92-94 points

Another great vintage from an estate that has been firing on all cylinders over the past few vintages, aided by consultants Michel Rolland and Stéphane Derenoncourt. There`s a gorgeous vibrant colour here with violet reflections, and the firm tannins on the attack are well plumped up. The austerity of the vintage is there but extremely well-handled, and even turned to its advantage because it plays its hand slowly and carefully. It`s really quite a serious and well-structured wine, with a freshness through the palate; I love it. 60% new oak. The estate has been organic since 2013 and undergoing biodynamic conversion since 2017. Harvest was 13-29 September. Tasted at the estate. 92 points

The deep garnet-purple colored 2017 Fonplegade has quite a spicy nose sporting notes of anise, cloves, fenugreek and black pepper over a core of warm black plums and blackberries plus a waft of potpourri. Medium-bodied with a rock-solid frame of grainy tannins and wonderful freshness, it features bags of vibrant black fruits and a long, spicy finish. 93-95 points