2017 Fombrauge (St-Emilion)

The 2017 Fombrauge was partially touched by the frost in the lower reaches of the vineyard. It was picked from 21 September to 7 October, relatively late for this vintage. It underwent two leaf-thinning and ages for 16 months in 40% new oak, the remainder one-year old. It offers raspberry and crushed strawberry fruit on the nose, the oak nicely integrated with incense and iris aromas emerging with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated ripe tannin, plush and sensual in the mouth with lightly spiced red and black fruit tinged with dried blood and white pepper. This is a well-crafted Fombrauge that will probably require three or four years in bottle. 90-92 points

Magrez has done a good job in 2017 pretty much across the board - these are wines that have the natural austerity of the vintage, but with clever use of oak that rounds out the fruit that can otherwise appear a little thin. There is power here, no doubt, but the finish is shorter than in the past two vintages. A dash of Cabernet Sauvignon finishes off the blend. At 58ha, this is one of the biggest St-Émilion estates. 91 points

Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Fombrauge leaps from the glass with expressive red and black currants notes and a plummy undercurrent plus wafts of lilacs and wood smoke. The palate is medium-bodied with a finely grained frame and backbone freshness supporting the elegant fruit, finishing on a lingering earthy note. 92-94 points