2017 Dugat-Py Gevrey-Chambertin Fonteny VV

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fonteny 1er Cru includes two-thirds whole bunch fruit and is raised entirely in new oak. It has a clean and pure bouquet. The oak is actually well integrated, with copious black cherries, blueberry and crushed violet aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, a fine bead of acidity, quite dense and grippy but with a fine mineral-driven finish. It will require six to eight years in bottle but this should turn out very fine. 91-93 points

From a small parcel that touches Ruchottes-Chambertin and Mazis-Chambertin, and which is exposed quite differently from the rest of this premier cru, the 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny was vinified with 60% whole cluster and matured in one new 350-liter barrel. The wine offers up aromas of smoky berry fruit, dark chocolate, orange rind and spices, followed by a full-bodied, velvety palate with a broad, fleshy attack that segues into a beautifully tensile, mineral mid-palate and finish. It`s one of the domaine`s rarest bottlings, but it will be well worth seeking out. 92-94 points

A slightly riper yet still quite cool and ultra-floral nose of plum, dark currant and earth precedes the intense, detailed and slightly bigger and richer medium-bodied flavors that deliver fine length on the mildly austere and dusty finale. As it often is at this stage, this impressively chiseled and stony effort is very compact and will need extended clearing to unwind. 91-93 points

Premier cru located between Mazis and Ruchottes. One 350-litre barrel so all new. 75% whole bunch. Like the Perrière, marked at the moment by the sweet and toasty oak on the nose but there’s bags of ripe and sweet red fruit here. Spice seems to be part of the texture as well as the flavour. Tannins are firm but more chalky. Very spicy. Very primary and concentrated and that honest rude health of all these wines. 17 points