2017 Dugat-Py Gevrey-Chambertin Evocelles TVV

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles 1er Cru has an intense black cherry and raspberry coulis scented bouquet, plenty of concentration here, unsurprising since the old vines yielded around 25hl/ha. The palate is well balanced. The 50% whole bunches are neatly integrated, with slightly chewy tannin and a citrus, quite focused orange rind-tinged finish. 89-91 points

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles went though its malolactic fermentation very late, so the wine was comparatively primary and reserved on the nose, offering up aromas of wild berries, damson, coniferous forest floor and dark chocolate. On the palate, it`s medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with wonderful structural tension and back-end mineral drive to complement its juicy and concentrated core of fruit. The wine was fermented with more than 50% whole cluster and matured in some 70% new wood. Even this year, the domaine`s hectare of vines in this stony lieu-dit produced only seven barrels of wine, a yield amounting to scarcely 20 hectoliters per hectare. 91-93+ points

Almost 1 ha (around 2.4 acres) of 70-year-old vines. Racked in September and back to barrel. I am the first to taste this because the malo was so late. 50% whole bunch and 50% new oak. Sweet spice that seems to be both fruit and oak. Dark red fruits, really ripe but not overripe. Firm and grippy on the palate, with a savoury character given by the tannins. Deep and richly fruited and lovely freshness adding to the length. Juicy at the core. Opens up to a red-fruited ripe scent. Deep and generous in fruit. 16.5 points