The 2017 Doisy-Daëne is a little richer on the nose compared to recent vintages, quite pure with acacia honey, melted wax and touches of almond filtering through with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a viscous opening, finely judged acidity, borrowing some of the weight usually expressed by Doisy-Védrines to create a very satisfying and opulent finish. It does not give the live-wire tension that is common in this Barsac, but it does give plenty of depth and length. 93-95 points

As with its next door neighbour, this benefits from limestone soils in what is a late-onset botrytis vintage for the sweet wines of Bordeaux. It means it has some fresh, fine, blooming acids, just scraping through the mid-palate and balanced by gorgeous notes of candied ginger, white flowers, honeysuckle, jasmine and a seam of freshness. It really grows on me, and has great persistency. 94 points

Barsac. 85% Sémillon, 15% Sauvignon Blanc. RS 124 g/l, TA (sulphuric) 4.5 g/l.