The 2017 Clos du Marquis was cropped at 37hl/ha between 15 September and 4 October during an overall 15 days of actual picking. It is matured in 55% new oak and includes 6.2% vin de presse from 25 different lots. It has a more backward, tightly wound bouquet than I was expecting but it opens up with time. And wow, give it 10 minutes and that estuarine saline scent feels quite pungent. There is impressive density imbued into this Clos du Marquis, if not the detail, the precision of last year’s wine. There is plenty of “rondeur” towards the finish with a pleasant saltiness flanked by a hint of salted liquorice on the finish. 90-92 points

This takes its time, has a fairly hefty structure and unfurls at its own pace. The last day of harvest was 4 October, but the overall growth cycle was early so they were able to wait for full ripeness, and even though the fruit flavours are savoury, they are intense. It certainly has some bounce and energy, and the balance is there too. An enjoyable wine that should be ready to drink within four to six years, but the low pH and good freshness suggest it should also age well. 55% new oak barrels. 80% of production, with the rest going into the second wine. 90 points

Cabernet Sauvignon focus (72%) with the older vines. 27% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc. 55% new oak. pH 3.73, IPT 65. Deepest crimson with black core. Gorgeous dark fruit, with savoury/graphite as counterpoint to the cassis. A hint of oak char but at the right level for harmony at this point. Benchmark Cabernet flavours, pure and refined and fresh. Very precise fruit, long. Firm but dry. Smooth, deep texture and excellent freshness. 17 points

Medium to deep garnet-purple colored and composed of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc, the 2017 Clos du Marquis gives up gorgeous notions of crushed plums, blackberries and cassis with hints of chocolate box, pencil lead, menthol and lavender. The palate is medium-bodied, very finely crafted and refreshing with firm yet fine-grained tannins, great intensity and a long, mineral-laced finish. 91-93 points