The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is dusty, dark and floral at first, but with time, it becomes exotic and spicy. Black cherries lifted by minty herbs and camphor give way to floral undergrowth and tobacco as the 2017 gains in volume with each swirl of the glass. It’s silky-smooth and pliant yet shows remarkable purity and cooling acidity, as you perceive its red and hints of blue fruit slowly drenching the palate, leaving salty minerals and a coating of primary concentration. The long, penetrating finale mixes fine tannins and nuances of sour citrus in a powerful yet wonderfully balanced expression of the Romitorio vineyards. The 2017 Brunello has only gotten better since the first time I tasted it in Montalcino, and it is a highly promising expression of the vintage from Castello Romitorio. 93+ points