2017 Cantenac Brown (Margaux)

The 2017 Cantenac Brown feels a little disjointed on the nose, not quite as ripe as its peers with moderate fruit intensity. There is just a little greenness that nags away in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, quite grippy tannins. This is a structured and more masculine style of Cantenac Brown, although it manages to deliver plenty of finesse towards the finish and there is commendable length. I would just like a little more charm by the time of bottling. Tasted on three occasions. 89-91 points

The dial is just a little more turned-up here compared to most Margaux this year, but it works. Subtle charred oak notes are evident on the nose, with tight, savoury cassis and bilberry running through the mid-palate without dipping at all. It ends well, with a breadcrumb trail of carefully placed fruits. Nobody is going to call this broad-shouldered or a fruit bomb, but it is successfully expressed and really elegant, with layers of flavour. It`s a wine that should be lovely to open in around eight years, so a little earlier than usual, but with good ageing potential. 92 points

Deep greyish crimson. Deeply inviting aroma of pure cedary cassis and just a touch of vanilla. Classic bordeaux flavours on the palate, with dark fruit, a hint of graphite and a little oak sweetness. Lightish, fresh and harmonious, Light tannins, but a little bit dilute and herbaceous on the finish. 15.5 points

With a larger proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon this year, the blend is 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot. Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2017 Cantenac Brown leaps from the glass with exuberant notes of cassis, warm plums and black forest cake with touches of violets, dark chocolate, cloves and cigar box plus a waft of lavender. The palate is medium-bodied and firm with fine-grained tannins and tons of freshness, finishing with plenty of black fruit and perfumed layers. 90-92 points