2016 Pavie (St-Emilion)

The 2016 Pavie, matured in 80% new oak, has a thrilling bouquet of layers of small black cherries, boysenberry, fig and a hint of licorice, all very well defined; the oak is nicely integrated. The medium-bodied palate offers ripe, sappy black fruit, grippy tannin, a smooth texture and crisp acidity toward the finish. This is a seamless Pavie, but backward compared to its peers, and it needs several years in bottle before it even entertains the prospect of drinking pleasure. 98 points

One of the most thrilling surprises of the vintage, here a new approach to a more finely-wrought Pavie has collided with a vintage that has natural freshness and acidity. The result shows the potential of this terroir. Without a doubt the best Pavie that I have ever tasted, and one where I have not had to say, `yes, but...`. Let`s not pretend that it`s night and day from the old regime, but nor should it be - Pavie needs to keep its signature black fruited glamour and intensity, as that is part of what delivered its new status, but to my mind this is a far better balance than in the past. The blend is 60% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, the lowest amount of Merlot since Perse arrived. This still has reams of intense fruit, but the tannins are not immovable as they have been in some years, and pulses of minerality leap up on the finish to make your mouth water. Gorgeous. 97 points