The 2016 Barrel Fermented Sauvignon Blanc, which was in 500-liter barrels and one concrete egg for nine months, has a lovely, quite complex bouquet of melted wax, crushed stone and grilled walnut scents; hints of gooseberry develop with time. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, delivering a satisfying citric attack with plenty of salinity on the brisk finish. Excellent. 91 points

Increasingly Bordeaux-like in terms of structure and flavour, Sam O’Keefe’s judiciously wooded Sauvignon is savoury, smoky and toasty, with 10% concrete eggs adding interest to its textured, nettley, spicy palate. The oak is beautifully integrated here. Drink 2017-21. 94 points