Ugolaia is a 1ha southeast-facing single vineyard. The terracotta-coloured soil is rich in marine fossils. After ageing in Slavonian oak botti for three years, the wine is finished in chestnut casks for six months, giving a polished wood sheen to the wine. Toothsome apricot, red plum and persimmon pervade the palate without weighing it down, the fruit offset by a pronounced mineral flintiness and accent of red liquorice. Layers of fine, powdery tannins keep its voluptuousness in check, as does underlying sneaky acidity. 96 points