A good, maybe not great vintage for the 2014 Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc, it’s still outstanding and offers loads of orchard fruits, brioche, crushed rock and buttered citrus in a medium to full-bodied, elegant, pretty style. I’d give bottles a year in the cellar and drink them over the following decade, but a recent retrospective has convinced me you can age these for just about as long as you’d like. 91 points

quite a full yellow robe. The nose is full of pear fruit, white strawberry, has a glistening fatness, airs of Melba, very thin toast and a curl of aniseed that helps to brighten it. The palate moves with a serene fatness, is oily and smoothly textured. It picks up some increased depth and grip on the quietly wide finish. This is wine that is never in a hurry, and its overt fat will allow drinking with sauced dishes, Vieille France cuisine, sweetbreads, veal. Drink 2028-30. 4 stars