There are two barrels, one new and one old, of the 2014 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru this year. Like the Bâtard, the nose is tight and reticent at the moment despite rigorous aeration. The palate is crisp and tensile on the entry, perhaps more nuanced than the Bâtard with very discrete white peach and nectarine notes. But it is the tension, the almost coruscating sense of energy here that bowls you over. With superb persistence in the mouth, this is another spellbinding wine from Alex Moreau. 95-97 points

Showing more acidity and definition than the Bâtard (which is nearly always the case), this comes from higher on the slope and is appropriately taut and chiselled but with understated power and fruit concentration. Made with purchased grapes. Drink 2019-30. 96 points