2013 Piper-Heidsieck Rare

From a cool, late-ripening vintage that saw harvest extend into October—a year defined by relatively low temperatures yet enough sunshine—the 2013 Rare Millésime, released ahead of its 2012 counterpart, was disgorged at the end of 2023 with a dosage of nine grams per liter. It opens in the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of white flowers, passion fruit, buttered toast and lemon oil, with a deft touch of smoky reduction. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, bright and tightly wound, revealing a crisp core of fruit that beautifully integrates its racy spine of acidity, enlivened by a pillowy mousse, culminating in a long, saline finish. Whereas the 2012 is more flamboyant and expressive, the 2013 is leaner, lighter structured, and slower to reveal its charms, promising to blossom further with additional bottle age. The blend follows the house approach: 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, with Montagne de Reims as the principal source. 94+ points