Whiff of gunsmoke reduction, opening up to show concentrated dark berry fruit with liqourice, pencil lead, campfire and black truffle. Stately and muscular, a brilliant counterpoint to the grace of La Mission Haut-Brion. Grips the palate, this is one of the highest alcohol wines in the vintage and yet it is balanced, with so much flavour and presence that just fills the palate and hangs on. I remember loving this En Primeur, and at the 10 years on mark it remains one of the wines of the vintage. 100% new oak. 98 points

The 2012 Haut-Brion has a similar bouquet to the one shown three weeks earlier with plenty of enticing tobacco and loamy aromas percolating through the blackberry and raspberry fruit. Here, there may be a touch more mintiness and incense. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. This bottle is less austere than the other. What it shares in common is the freshness and tension with a slightly ferrous and persistent finish. Tasted at Bordeaux Index`s 10-Year-On tasting. 95 points