With his 2012 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Steinertal, says Lucas Pichler, `the aim is to showcase the vineyard, which is a cool site, whereas in Loiben, really, things are (generally) a bit too warm.` Prior to this solo debut – spurred by the acquisition of a second parcel – the Pichlers’ Gruner Veltliner from this site went into their Loibenberg (and `M`). This solo Steinertal projects delightfully luscious and exuberant pear and melon fruit along with saliva-inducing, metaphorically cooling suggestions of stalk celery. A sweet-smoky bite of Szechuan pepper lends invigoration and cut to a juicily protracted finish. A model of elegance and lift allied to fundamentally rich ripeness, it should perform beautifully through at least 2022. 92 points

Mineral aromas of fresh apricot, mint and citrus zest. Mouthfilling muskmelon flavor is enlivened by a refreshing acid structure, making this appear lighter than it actually is. With mineral salts and wild spices on the back of the palate, this stylish wine is the coolest and most invigorating of the veltliners here. 92 points