In a departure from typical recent behavior, Zind-Humbrecht’s 2011 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl (last tasted from cask) fermented to a mere four grams of residual sugar. Yet, it reached only a modest 13.4% alcohol. This boasts hazelnut and walnut piquancy, musky inner-mouth perfume, and juicy white peach and lemon on a palpably dense, expansive, yet somehow also buoyant palate. Where the corresponding Clos Hauserer bore at least superficial resemblance to Chablis, here one might detect some kinship with Meursault. In either case, there is an undeniable sense of chalky, stony underpinnings as well as a vibratory finishing intensity with a sense of animation and sheer juiciness rare for the vintage. Plan to follow this through at least 2028. 92-93 points