2010 Margaux

The 2010 Chateau Margaux continues to deliver the goods, but like the 2005, it is a wine that demands patience. Backward on the nose, this vintage offers black fruit, crushed violet petals and mint, graphite and cedar joining the chorus line. This bouquet is only in its first chapter. The palate is one of the most structured in recent years, gripping the mouth like a Latour, the tannins perhaps having firmed up a bit in the last couple of years. But this has a crucial line of acidity that counterbalances the payload of fruit concentration with a bravura finish that is like a brass section going full pelt. Wonderful. Tasted at the chateau. 97 points

The remarkable thing about the tannins of this 2010 Château Margaux is that they feel more plush and velvety than the 2nd wine at this stage - almost more ready to drink. A brilliant wine, dense yet light on its feet, aromatic and seductive, soft leather, cedar, sandalwood, Christmas spice and blackberry notes, with violet notes and a gunsmoke curl. Margaux du Château Margaux was in its second vintage at this point, and by adding this 3rd wine, they tightened up selection across the board even further, with 38% of grapes making their way to the 1st wine. 100% new oak. Paul Pontallier director. 98 points