2010 Kuen Hof Veltliner Valle Isarco

This is from that bit of Italy that was and for many of its inhabitants forever will be Austria. The Pligers are from that Austrian tradition and their wines are expressive and luxury versions of the varieties. This Veltliner is both weighty and fresh, with the fat peach cut by a typical dash of white pepper and cleansing minerals. A long finish of greengage rounds things off nicely. Forza Italia, says the Lega Nord. (CW 08/07/12)