2010 Gramercy Syrah John Lewis Walla Walla

Harrington’s 2010 Syrah John Lewis – tasted right after assemblage, a week ahead of bottling – represents an ostensibly especially rigorous selection of his barrels (in this instance demi-muids) for a cuvee that he doesn’t consider himself obliged to bottle every year, and which, in the present instance, consists (much like the corresponding “regular” Walla Walla Syrah) of grapes from Les Collines with a small amount from The Rocks (a.k.a SJR Vineyard), only around 10% of which was destemmed. An ashen and smoky aura along with scents and flavors of dark tobacco and tar all put me in mind of Tempranillo. Cassis, huckleberry and herbal concentrates constitute a bitter-edged fruit fundament. Firm tannins make for an overt impression of density and some finishing bite and chew, all partly assuaged by glycerol-richness. This lingers with impressive tenacity, although, for now at least, it lacks the charm, textural allure, or intrigue of the corresponding Lagniappe bottling. 90-91 points

(13.9% alcohol, vs. 14.2% for the Lagniappe). Medium red-ruby. Deep, brooding aromas of musky black fruits, spicecake, pepper, smoke, brown spices and black olive. Rich, suave and fine-grained, with lush, seamless flavors of raspberry and olive perked up by pepper and herbs on the end. The biggest and richest of the 2010 syrahs from this producer but I find a bit less personality and definition today than the Lagniappe is currently showing. 91+? points