A complex set of aromas ranging from coffee to forest floor, herbs, licorice, blackberries, cassis and cherries all seem to jump from the glass, and then are joined by a hint of charcoal as well camphor. This is an impressive, full-bodied, dense, concentrated wine that is more up-front and approachable than the 2005 was at a similar stage, but it is remarkably expressive, full-bodied, dense and capable of lasting 20-25 years. Showing better from bottle than it did from barrel, this wine comes very close to equaling the prodigious 2005 that was produced by consultants Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt. Cropped at 25 hectoliters per hectare from the limestone hillsides of this terroir, the final blend was 81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc that tipped the scales at 14.6% natural alcohol. It is a brilliant sample of wine, as this has long been one of the great terroirs of St.-Emilion, but under-exploited until nearly a decade ago. 96 points

This is another 2009 that does not live up to the extraordinary quality of the 2005, but it is a fascinating wine nevertheless. Composed of 81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc, it tips the scales at 14.8% natural alcohol. The wunderkind team of Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt has produced a dense, rich, soft, relatively seamless, elegant example of Larcis Ducasse, without the concentration found in the 2005. The 2009 reveals a generous sweet spot in the middle along with lots of glycerin, and a wonderful round opulence, but I did not see the potential complexity or sheer concentration of their best wine to date, the 2005. Look for the 2009 to age easily for two decades. (Tasted four times.) Dirnk 2010-2030. 91-94 points

Tasted at the Association de Crus Classé tasting at Grand Pontet. A blend of 81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc, this brims with ripe red-berried fruit on the nose with touches of wild hedgerow and wild strawberry. It is not as opulent as...