A dry, zesty white, boasting ripe pineapple, tangerine and quince notes as well as firm, tangy acidity. A smoky layer underscores a core of white pepper, anise and a touch of clove. Shows fine balance and length, with a long, spicy finish. Drink now through 2028. 210 cases made. 93 points

Bright medium yellow. Very fresh aromas of apricot and honey, with a hint of tangy orange marmalade from a bit of noble rot. Silky on entry, with a touch of sweetness leavened by perfectly integrated acidity. More pliant and open today than the Rangen, with its much fruitier character giving it early appeal. But a wine like this should evolve in bottle for a couple of decades. This tactile, highly concentrated riesling finishes very smooth and very long. 92 points