2004 Pichon Longueville Lalande (Pauillac)

The 2004 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of rich dark berry fruit, cigar wrapper and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with velvety tannins and a seamless, charming profile, it is really beginning to drink with some style. It`s one of the wines of the vintage and continues to represent terrific value. 94 points

One can’t say enough about the brilliant work being done by manager Thomas Do-Chi-Nam, who started at Pichon-Lalande in 1992. The estate feels the 2004 has much in common with the 1996, but I’m not as convinced. Produced from yields of 50 hectoliters per hectare, with only 55% of the crop making it into the final blend, and a harvest that took place between September 27 and October 14, the final blend was 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Petit Verdot. A complex, fragrant bouquet of fennel, black currants, sweet cherries, licorice, and sweet oak (about 50% new oak is utilized) is followed by a medium-bodied Pauillac exhibiting excellent concentration, elegance, and acidity as well as a nicely textured mouthfeel without being anywhere near the size or opulence of the 2003. It appears to be a modern day version of the 1986, with sweeter, riper fruit. Drink 2008-2020. 91-94 points