This is dark at its core, and yet with a remarkably vibrant rim, perhaps not the densest colour here but it still has some conviction. The nose is similarly very convincing, with bacon and black liquorice at first, then cranberry, currant and cherry skin. The green notes seem distinctly less obvious than on my previous tasting a couple of years ago. There is a moderate weight to it, a very pleasing substance, admittedly gentle but for the vintage it adds a touch of fruit cream to the proceedings. The finish is less diffuse, still not with the conviction or definition of a truly great wine, nevertheless some may welcome this as it suggests flesh in what is certainly a leaner style. Good fresh acids, not dominating, and spicy grip to it in the finish. I underestimated this when I tasted it a couple of years ago; this has really come round and is, within the context of the vintage, very appealing. And what is more it is still on the way up. 17 points