Purity and precision - the fine whites of Borgo del Tiglio
'Borgo del Tiglio is one of the world's greatest estates. Proprietor Nicola Manferrari crafts brilliant, chiseled whites built on saline-infused minerality and energy that capture the essence of some of Friuli's most compelling terroirs.' - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com
The atmospherics of my arrival at Borgo del Tiglio were not promising; it was cold, after dark and bucketing rain. But pretty soon I found myself entirely captivated by a lesson in terroir, viticulture and winemaking. Behind Nicola Manferrari's dry delivery was a wealth of insight, scientific rigour and inspiration; his highly precise but powerful wines electrified my palate. At each one of the estates in Friuli I visited in March the 2016s were singing, showing bright flavours and high tension. But nowhere were the wines as impressive as at Borgo del Tiglio.
Nicola trained as a pharmacist, but he took over the estate in 1981 when his father unexpectedly passed away. It had always been well known locally that the family had the best vineyards in the area; Nicola's grandfather sold the family wines very easily. Now he dreamed of making world-class white wines that people would age. He has always been very focussed on the letting the quality of terroir speak; from the early days, he avoided anything that might dilute terroir impact, such as fertilisers or irrigation. Nicola is now helped by his son Mattia; when they taste every barrel blindly and can tell from which vineyard it has come, they believe they have done their job well.
Clean, pure and layered, shot through with a saline streak, their Friulano is a classic example of Friuli's most characteristic local variety. Their Sauvignon Blanc is subtly flavoured but mouthfilling, a delicate attack of sweet citrus followed by an invigorating finish. I perhaps most love their Malvasia, luscious and persistent, with notes of mandarin and just a suggestion of oak. The Chardonnay Selezione is a selection of their very best Chardonnay barrels. It shows aromas both ripe yet delicate, with a hint of butter, white flowers and caramel. /NT
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available immediately
