The Unforgiven

I'll see you in hell, William Money.

The over-oakers of old school, new world Chardonnay have a lot to answer for. Weedy wines, wooded only to give them a semblance of substance prevailed in the late 80s and early nineties. Nowadays the Anything But Chardonnay brigade should have been routed, but occasionally one comes out of the jungle asking if the war is over yet. Here are four wines that will convince. In their purity and naturalness, in their complexity and variety they should convince the most die hard 'I hate Chardonnay but Chablis is nice'  partisan.